DESTINATION ARGENTINA

You hear plenty of talk about the tango and gauchos when you mention Argentina, but for many travelers it's the country's natural wonders that are the primary attraction. They range from the northern deserts to the southern Andean cordillera and from Iguazú Falls to the magnificent desolation of Patagonia. On top of this there's the capital Buenos Aires - a fabulous city either renowned for its sophistication or derided for its derivative neo-European culture, depending on which way you choose to look at such things.

In fact, the overwhelming feature of Argentina's largely immigrant population is the degree to which the cultural traits of Europe have remained intact during their transposition to the so-called New World. For such reasons, Argentina is one Latin American country in which Europeans, North Americans and Anglophones can feel at ease and travel relatively inconspicuously. An interest in soccer and some nimble foot skills may be all you need to feel like a local.

Map of Argentina (11K)

Slide Show


Facts at a Glance
Environment
History
Economy
Culture
Events
Facts for the Traveler
Money & Costs
When to Go
 Attractions
Off the Beaten Track
Activities
Getting There & Away
Getting Around
Recommended Reading
Lonely Planet Guides
Travelers' Reports on Argentina
On-line Info


Facts at a Glance

Full country name: República Argentina
Area: 2,776,653 sq km (1,082,895 sq mi)
Population: 34 million (growth rate 1.2%)
Capital city: Buenos Aires (pop 12 million)
People: 85% European descent, 15% mestizo, Indian and other minorities
Language: American Spanish, plus 17 indigenous languages
Religion: 93% Roman Catholic, 2.5% Protestant, 2% Jewish, 1.5% Ukranian Catholic, Armenian Orthodox
Government: Republic
President: Carlos Saúl Menem

Environment

Argentina forms the eastern half of South America's long, tapering tail. It's a big country - the eighth-largest in the world, and the second-largest on the South American continent. It borders Chile to the west (separated by the Andean Cordilleras range) and Uruguay, Paraguay, Brazil and Bolivia to the north and east (separated by rivers). It also shares the offshore island territory of Tierra del Fuego with Chile, and continues to dispute the ownership of the Islas Malvinas (the Falklands to the Brits). Argentina's topography is affected by both latitude and altitude, and is accordingly varied. The country can be divided into four major physiographic provinces: the Andes to the west (with arid basins, grape-filled foothills, glacial mountains and the Lake District), the fertile lowland north (with subtropical rainforests), the central Pampas (a flat mix of humid and dry expanses) and Patagonia (a combination of pastoral steppes and glacial regions).

Twenty-two national parks preserve large areas of these varied environments and protect wildlife (much of it unique) such as the caiman (or yacaré), puma, guanaco (a lowland relative of the upper-Andean llama), rhea (similar to an ostrich), Andean condor, flamingo, various marine mammals and unusual seabirds such as Magellanic penguins. Thorn forests, virgin rainforests, flowering cacti, extensive forests of monkey-puzzle trees and southern beech are also protected.

Rhea (10K)

Argentina's climate ranges from subtropical in the north to humid and steamy in the centre, and cold in the temperate south. The Andes region has erratic rainfall, flash floods in summer, searing heat, snow at higher elevations, and the Zonda - a hot, dry wind. The lowlands receive sufficient rainfall to support swampy forests and upland savanna, but rainfall decreases from east to west; shallow summer flooding is common in the east. The winter dry season is pronounced, and the summer heat can be brutal. The flat pampas areas are also vulnerable to flooding; Patagonia is mild year-round in the east and glacial in the south.

History

Pre-Columbian Argentina was farmed by sedentary Indian groups such as the Diaguita and used as a hunting ground by nomads. Indian resistance inhibited Spanish incursions and discouraged Spanish settlement. Buenos Aires was not successfully established until 1580, and remained a backwater for 200 years. A declining and unevenly distributed Indian population, which could not be milked for its labor, led to the creation of huge cattle ranches, known as haciendas - the genesis of the legendary gaucho (cowboy) and the source of great wealth for a lucky few.

Buenos Aires became the capital of the new Viceroyalty of the Río de la Plata in 1776, acknowledgment that the region had outgrown Spain's political and economic domination. However, continuing dissatisfaction with Spanish interference led to the revolution of 25 May 1810 and eventual independence in 1816. Independence revealed the seething regional disparities which Spanish rule had obscured. The Federalists of the interior (conservative landowners, supported by the gauchos and rural working class) advocated provincial autonomy, while the Unitarists of Buenos Aires (cosmopolitan city dwellers who welcomed the injection of European capital, immigrants and ideas) upheld Buenos Aires' central authority. After a disastrous and tyrannical period of rule by the nominally Federalist Juan Manuel Rosas, Buenos Aires and Unitarism prevailed, ushering in a new era of growth and prosperity with the Unitarist constitution of 1853.

Sheep were introduced and the Pampas was given over to the cultivation of cereal crops. European immigration, foreign investment and trade were hallmarks of the new liberalism. However, excessive foreign interests made the economy particularly vulnerable to world economic downturns; wealth was concentrated in the hands of the very few, and unemployment rose as smallholdings failed and farmers were forced to leave the land and head for the cities.

The first decades of the 20th century saw increasingly weak civilian rule, economic failure, continuing resentment of the landed elite and distrust of British interests, leading to a military coup in 1943 which paved the way for the rise of dictator Juan Perón. An obscure colonel with a minor post in the labor ministry, he won the presidency in 1946 and again in 1952. With his equally popular and charismatic wife Eva at his side, he instituted a stringent economic program which stressed domestic industrialization and self-determination, appealing to both the conservative nationalist and working-class factions. His party was squashed by a military coup in 1955, leading to Perón's banishment to Spain and initiating 30 years of disastrous military rule, interspersed by only brief periods of civilian rule. Perón returned to rule briefly in 1973, dying in office in 1974 and bequeathing power to his third wife, Isabel. Increasing economic problems and political instability led to strikes, political kidnappings and guerrilla warfare. Isabel's government fell in 1976, and the new military government instituted a reign of terror.

The years 1976 to 1983 have been described as the years of the Dirty War. Opposition and criticism were eradicated by paramilitary death squads which operated with the state's complicity, bringing about the 'disappearance' of between 10,000 and 30,000 citizens. The most famous victims of this period were the Madres de la Plaza de Mayo, women who bravely kept an open, public vigil for the 'disappeared' members of their families, and who often 'disappeared' themselves.

This internal conflict ironically came to an end only with the emergence of a 'real' war in the south Atlantic: the battle for the Malvinas/Falklands. General Leopold Galtieri seized the Malvinas from the British to distract attention from Argentina's appalling political corruption and economic mismanagement. Surges of nationalistic hysteria in both countries resulted in a British flotilla sailing across the world to save one of the few remaining pink bits on the map. Britain was the eventual 'victor' in what was a mutually shameful and costly episode.

Ignominious failure at home and abroad finally sealed the fate of Argentina's military rule, and the country returned to the constitution of 1853. The current president, the Perónist Menem, has instituted economic changes - selling off nationalized industries and opening the economy to foreign investment - which have reduced inflation from 5000% to just 4%. Menem became the first Argentine president in over 40 years to win consecutive terms when he was easily re-elected in June 1995. Ownership of the Malvinas, however, remains disputed. In June 1995, the Argentine foreign minister offered to buy the islands, offering each of the 2000 islanders US$800,000 for their nationality. The matter has been further complicated by Britain's belief that oilfields lie offshore, and further bickering seems likely.

Economic Profile

GDP: US$283 billion
GDP per head: US$6800
Inflation: 1%
Major industries: Food processing, agribusiness
Major trading partners: USA, Brazil, Netherlands, Germany, Italy

Culture

European influences permeate Argentina's art, architecture, literature and lifestyle. However, in the field of literature in particular, this has been a cross-cultural transaction, with Argentina producing writers of international stature such as Jorge Luis Borges, Julio Cortázar, Ernesto Sábasto, Manuel Puig and Osvaldo Soriano. With the education of many Argentines taking place in Europe, Buenos Aires in particular has self-consciously emulated European cultural trends in art, music and architecture. As a result, there are many important art museums and galleries in the city, and it has a vigorous theater community. Argentine cinema has also achieved international stature, and has been used as a vehicle to exorcise the horrors of the Dirty War.

Probably the best known manifestation of Argentine popular culture is the tango - a dance and music which has captured the imagination of romantics worldwide. Folk music is also thriving. Sport is extremely important to the Argentines and soccer is more of a national obsession than a game. Argentina won the World Cup in 1978 and 1986, and the exploits of Diego Maradona (the most famous Argentinian since Che Guevara), have kept soccer fans, paparazzi and columnists busy for the past 10 years.

Off the record

Argentine Roman Catholicism, the official state religion, is riddled with popular beliefs which diverge from official doctrine. Spiritualism and veneration of the dead are deep-seated, with pilgrimages to the resting places of relations and of the famous dead a common sight. Spanish is the official language, but some immigrant communities retain their language as a badge of identity. Italian is widely understood, reflecting the influence of the country's single largest immigrant group, and BBC English is the preserve of the Anglo community. There are 17 native languages, including Quechua, Mapuche, Guaraní, Tobas and Matacos.

Pilgrim, Difunta Correa Shrine (18K)

Meat dominates Argentina's menus, and 'meat' means beef. Mixed grills (parrillada) are apparently the way to go, serving up a cut of just about every part of the animal: tripe, intestines, udders - the lot. In this vegetarian's nightmare, Italian favorites, such as gnocchi (ñoquis), are a welcome alternative. Exquisite Argentine ice cream (helado) deserves a special mention - again reflecting Italian influences. The sharing of mate, Paraguayan tea, is a ritual more than a beverage, and if offered is a special expression of acceptance. The leaves, a relation to holly, are elaborately prepared and the mixture is drunk from a shared gourd.

Events

Surprisingly, Argentina has few festivals and fiestas, and most public holidays reflect the Roman Catholic liturgical calendar. Things come to a stop over the Christmas to New Year and Easter periods. Saints' days and provincial holidays are other important events, as are 25 May (commemorating the May Revolution of 1810), Malvinas Day (10 June) and Columbus Day (12 October).

Facts for the Traveler

Visas: Most foreigners do not need visas and, in theory, are issued free, renewable 90-day tourist cards on arrival.
Health risks: Cholera is a hazard in the subtropical north
Time: GMC/UTC minus 3 hours; Buenos Aires observes daylight-saving time
Electricity: 220V, 50Hz
Weights & measures: Mostly metric, but rural areas may use the legua (league, about 5 km). See the conversion table.

Money & Costs

Currency: Peso

Relative costs:

  • Budget room: US$20-30
  • Moderate hotel: US$30-40
  • Top-end hotel: US$40 and upwards

  • Budget meal: US$4-10
  • Moderate restaurant meal: US$10-20
  • Top-end restaurant meal: US$20 and upwards
Argentina is an expensive country - so expensive that Argentinians have been in the habit of taking their holidays in `cheap' countries, like the USA. This does not mean that budget travel is impossible, since food, lodging and transportation can be cheaper than in both the USA and Europe. However, budget travelers should expect to spend at least US$35 per day; while those staying in more comfortable hotels and eating at restaurants should expect to spend around US$80 per day.

In the past, Argentine money presented real problems to those visitors unaccustomed to hyperinflation. When Argentine economists spoke hopefully of single digit inflation, they meant per month. In the last few years, however, the economy has stabilized and inflation is currently not a problem. Given Argentina's history of economic instability, savvy travelers should keep a watch on the exchange markets and on economic events.

US dollars are currently legal tender almost everywhere and, for the most part, it's unnecessary to change US cash into pesos. If you do need to exchange money, US dollars are the preferred currency - only in Buenos Aires will you be easily able to change European currencies. Visa and MasterCard are the most widely accepted credit cards. Tipping around 10% is customary in restaurants if the economy is ticking along nicely. Bargaining is uncommon, except in the artisan markets of the Andean northwest.

When to Go

For residents of the northern hemisphere, Argentina offers the inviting possibility of enjoying two summers in the same year, but the country's great variety and elongated geography can make a visit in any season worthwhile. Buenos Aires' urban attractions, for example, transcend the seasons, but Patagonian destinations, such as the Moreno Glacier in Santa Cruz, are best to visit in the summer months (December to February). The Iguazu Falls in subtropical Misiones province are best in the southern hemisphere's winter or spring when heat and humidity are less oppressive. The winter months also offer the opportunity to go skiing.

Attractions

Buenos Aires

To the city's poet laureate, Jorge Luis Borges, Buenos Aires was as eternal as air and water. To many Argentines, their capital city is synonymous with the country itself, and indeed 40% of the population lives in the city's massive, sprawling suburbs. Buenos Aires is situated on the banks of the Río de la Plata in the Federal Capital district, and not, as one would expect, in Buenos Aires province. A city transported from its European parent, its compact and regular center is reminiscent of Paris, but its tree-lined avenues and frequent plazas have a beguiling, faded elegance. The city throngs with bankers on the make and sophisticated dressers mingling with the gaunt beggars and unemployed from the surrounding shanty-town suburbs. Downtown, the Plaza de Mayo is the traditional focus of activity, while nearby Avenida 9 de Julio is popularly known as the world's widest thoroughfare and is truly a pedestrian's nightmare. Avenida Santa Fe is the most fashionable shopping area.

Congreso Nacional (15K)

Buenos Aires' attractions include the Catedral Metropolitana, which contains the tomb of José de San Martín, a hero of Argentina's struggle for independence; the Teatro Colón, a world-class facility for opera, ballet and classical music; a cluster of worthwhile and popular museums, including the Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes, Museo del Cine and Museo Histórico Nacional, which presents a panorama of the Argentine experience; the colorful Italian suburb of La Boca, which features brightly painted wooden houses lining the Riachuelo waterway; and the Cementerio de la Recoleta, the place to go to witness the national passion for death.

La Boca (20K)

Buenos Aires is an expensive city but regardless whether you're after a cheap or a top-end hotel, it is possible to stay right in the center of things. Congreso is a good place to look for inexpensive lodgings, while mid-range hotels are concentrated on Avenida de Mayo. Food bargains can be had in the suburbs of La Boca and San Telmo. Downtown, Lavalle and Avenida Corrientes are the places to go for pizza, coffee with the city's intellectuals or one of those ubiquitous meaty dishes.

Mar del Plata

If summer means the beach to the inhabitants of Greater Buenos Aires, Mar del Plata is most often the beach they are thinking of. Situated on the northern Atlantic coast, 400km (228mi) from the capital, beaches in this area sprawl for 8km (5mi), with sophisticated mansions (reflecting the area's upper-class origins) mingling with the new middle-class resorts. Sea lions keep an eye on the fishing activities around the wharves, and a replica of the grotto of Lourdes is a kitsch paradise.

Córdoba

Argentina's second city, Córdoba, long rivaled Buenos Aires for political, economic and cultural supremacy; indeed, while Buenos Aires languished through neglect, Cordoba was the country's architectural treasure house. Today, a fine collection of colonial buildings is concentrated in its compact center. They include the old market, the Iglesia Catedral (featuring a Romanesque dome) and the Jesuit Iglesia de la Compañía. The Museo Históricao Provincial Marqués de Sobremonte is one of the most important historical museums in the country.

The Pampas

The unrelentingly flat Pampas is Argentina's agricultural heartland and the home of that symbol of romantic nationalism, the gaucho. Comprising the provinces of Buenos Aires, La Pampa and major parts of Santa Fe and Córdoba, its varied environments include forested hills, extensive grasslands and flamingo-coated salt lakes. The Parque National Liahué Calel is a popular detour, with wildlife including some puma and many guanaco, rhea, native hares and a variety of wild chinchilla called a vizcacha. The cities of La Plata, Luján (whose basilica to La Virgen de Luján receives 4 million pilgrims a year), Rosario and Santa Fe are worth seeing for their many museums, churches and faded colonial buildings.

Basilica of Luján (8K)

Iguazú Falls

Situated in the Parque Nacional Iguazú near Puerto Iguazú, these spectacular falls lie just east of the confluence of the Iguazu and Paraná rivers. At least 5000 cubic m (176,570 cu ft) of water per second plunge the 70m (230ft) into the abyss below. If they look familiar, it's because they were the supporting actors in the film The Mission; appropriately, the area has historic ruins of Jesuit missions which also draw many visitors. San Ignacio Miní, built in a style of architecture known as 'Guaraní baroque', is especially popular. Above the falls, the waters are suitable for canoeing, kayaking and other water sports. The surrounding park is home to 55,000 hectares (135,850 acres) of pristine subtropical rainforest, with abundant wildlife and plant species.

Iguazú Falls (11K)

Off the Beaten Track

Cuyo

The Cuyo region consists of the Andean provinces of Mendoza and San Juan, and adjacent San Luis. The area retains a strong regional identity, with a unique mestizo population reflecting the influence of neighboring Chile. An important agricultural region, particularly famous for its grapes and wine, it lies in the shadow of the massive Andes and is visited for its many sporting and recreational activities, such as climbing and trekking. Wineries, hidden mountain villages and the centers of Mendoza and San Juan are other attractions.

The Andean Northwest

Home to abundant natural attractions and atmospheric relics from the pre-Columbian and colonial past, this is the more 'traditional' part of Argentina. It includes the provinces of Jujuy (numerous wildlife reserves), Salta (with the best preserved colonial city in the country, hundreds of archaeological sites, and colonial buildings) and Tucumán, La Rioja, Catamarca and Santiago del Estero.

Parque Provincial Talampaya, La Rioja (9K)

Patagonia

This enormous region south of Buenos Aires province features a glacier-dotted mountainous interior, unique coastal wildlife and Andean national parks. Península Valdés is a special treat for lovers of wildlife, with large numbers of sea lions, elephant seals, guanacos, rheas, Magellanic penguins, sea birds, flamingos and right whales. The Moreno Glacier of Santa Cruz is a 60-meter-high (197-ft-high) river of rising, toppling and exploding ice, though it hasn't been advancing for several years. Carmen de Patagones is a beautiful colonial city and there are unexpected vestiges of the area's previous Welsh inhabitants - in particular the town of Gaiman.

Southern Elephant Seal (19K)

Tierra del Fuego

Argentina shares half of this island territory in the South Atlantic Ocean with Chile. It's a place of oil derricks, sheep, glaciers, wind and waterways. Ushuaia and Río Grande are the two main towns; awesome scenery, wild walks and fishing are the island's main attractions. Argentina's only coastal national park comprises rivers, lakes, forests and glaciers, with great trekking and wildlife-spotting opportunities.

Activities

Just one example of the prevailing Italian influence is the importance placed on soccer, by far the country's most popular spectator and participatory sport. Argentina also has oodles of activity sports such as trekking, skiing and watersports. Elite sports such as rugby and polo reflect the influence of the country's immigrant societies, and skiing, despite its expense, is gaining in popularity. Argentina actually has some of the best skiing in the world, and many of the resorts have ski schools. There are several major skiing areas: the southern Cuyo region, the lakes district, La Hoya and near Ushuaia in Tierra del Fuego.

Wilderness walks are also very popular, with vast and beautiful treks through the Andes, Sierras de Córdoba and the Sierra de la Ventana in Buenos Aires province. Climbers should head for Aconcagua, west of Mendoza, the Fitzroy Range in Parque Nacional Los Glaciares in Santa Cruz province, and the Sierra de la Fentana (for advanced climbing). White-water rafting is becoming increasingly popular on the rivers that descend from the Andean divide: the main possibilities include Río Mendoza and Río Diamante in the Cuyo region, Río Hua Hum and Río Meliquina near San Martín de los Andes and the Río Limay and Río Manso near Bariloche.

Cerro Torre, Parque Nacional Los Glaciares (6K)

Moreno Glacier, PN Los Glaciares (13K)

Getting There & Away

Argentina has excellent worldwide air connections, with Aeropuerto Internacional Ezeiza, outside Buenos Aires, the main international airport. A departure tax of US$13 is payable on international flights; the tax is US$5 on flights to Uruguay.

A multitude of land and river crossing points connect Argentina with neighboring Uruguay, Brazil, Paraguay, Bolivia and Chile. Travel from Chile usually involves a hike through the Andes, while overland travel to Bolivia can go through the border towns of La Quiaca, Tarija, Pocitos/Yacuiba. Paraguay can be reached by bus and/or river launch, and the most common crossing to Brazil is via Foz do Iguaçu or Uruguaiana. Uruguay is linked to Argentina by road bridges, and ferries sail between Buenos Aires and Colonia in Uruguay.

Getting Around

Three Argentine airlines attempt to make this big country appear smaller: Aerolíneas Argentinas handles domestic as well as international routes, Austral covers domestic routes only, and Líneas Aéreas del Estado serves mostly Patagonian destinations. Discount deals and passes are advisable as fares are expensive. Argentine domestic flights carry a departure tax of around US$3.

Long-distance buses are fast and comfortable; some even provide on-board meal services. However, fares are expensive and fluctuate wildly.

The country's extensive rail network is unfortunately under threat due to the devolution of funding to provincial authorities and the increasing presence of that worldwide phenomenon, privatization.

Recommended Reading

  • For a taste of the work of important poet and short-story writer, Jorge Luis Borges, try the unsurpassable short-story collection Labyrinths or the playful A Universal History of Infamy. Ernesto Sábato's On Heroes and Tombs is a psychological novel exploring the people and places of Buenos Aires. Manuel Puig's novels such as Kiss of the Spider Woman and Betrayed by Rita Hayworth focus on the ambiguous role of popular culture in Argentina.
  • D F Sarmient's Life in the Argentine Republic in the Days of the Tyrants is an eloquent but often condescending contemporary look at Federalism, and both Unitarism and Federalism are analyzed in José Luis Romero's A History of Argentine Political Thought.
  • Gauchos and the Vanishing Frontier by Richard W Slatta covers the history of that famous figure. Charles Darwin's Voyage of the Beagle is surprisingly fresh, and his account of the gaucho is a vivid evocation of a way of life which many Argentines still relate to.
  • The many books on Perón include Perón and the Enigma of Argentina by Robert Crassweller. The Disappeared: Voices from a Secret War by John Simpson and Jana Bennett is an excellent account of that shadowy period, the Dirty War.
  • I Counted Them All Out and I Counted Them All Back is a journalistic account of the Falklands War by Brian Hanrahan and Robert Fox.
  • Bruce Chatwin's In Patagonia is an informed synthesis of life and landscape, and Gerald Durrell's entertaining accounts of his travels in Argentina include The Drunken Forest and The Whispering Land.
  • Cineastes may want to check out the chilling Apartment Zero, the beautifully off-beat The Man Who Faced Southeast and the film version of Puig's Kiss of the Spider Woman.

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